Quick Diagnosis
If your fridge freezer has stopped working, start here. Answer these three questions to narrow down the problem fast:
Is the light coming on when you open the door? If not, the issue is likely power-related — check the plug, the socket and the fuse. If the light works but the fridge is warm, the problem is with the cooling system.
Is the freezer working but the fridge is not? This is one of the most common faults and usually points to a blocked vent, failed fan or faulty thermostat.
Is neither the fridge nor the freezer cold? This suggests a compressor fault, a refrigerant leak or a complete electrical failure. If both compartments are warm and the unit is silent (no humming), the compressor has likely failed.
Use the sections below to identify your specific problem and find out whether it is a DIY fix or one for a qualified engineer.
8 Common Fridge Freezer Problems (And How to Fix Each One)
1. Power Failure or Tripped Socket
What it looks like: The fridge freezer is completely dead — no light, no humming, no sound at all.
What to check: Pull the fridge away from the wall and check the plug is firmly in the socket. Check that the socket is switched on. Test the socket by plugging in something else (a phone charger or lamp). Check your fuse box for a tripped switch — fridge freezers can trip an RCD if there is an electrical fault.
How to fix it: If the socket works with other appliances but not the fridge, the fuse in the plug may have blown. Replace it with a 13-amp fuse (available from any hardware shop for under £1). If the fuse blows again immediately, there is an electrical fault in the appliance — call an engineer.
DIY or engineer: DIY in most cases. Engineer if the fuse keeps blowing.
2. Fridge Not Cold Enough But Freezer Works Fine
What it looks like: The freezer compartment is working normally but the fridge section is warmer than it should be. Food is not staying fresh. Milk goes off quickly.
What to check: This is one of the most common fridge freezer faults in UK homes. The most likely cause is a blocked air vent between the freezer and fridge compartments. Cold air is generated in the freezer and circulated into the fridge through a vent. If that vent is blocked by ice buildup or food items, the fridge stops getting cold air.
How to fix it: Check the vent at the back of the fridge compartment. Remove any food blocking it. If ice has built up around the vent, you need to defrost the unit. Turn the fridge freezer off, open both doors and place towels underneath to catch the water. Leave it for 12-24 hours until all ice has melted. Turn it back on and wait 4-6 hours for it to reach the correct temperature.
If the problem returns within a few weeks, the defrost heater or defrost timer may be faulty — this is an engineer job.
DIY or engineer: DIY first (defrost). Engineer if it keeps recurring.
3. Frost or Ice Buildup Inside the Freezer
What it looks like: Thick ice forms on the walls, shelves or around the door seal of the freezer. In severe cases, the drawers freeze shut and cannot be opened.
What to check: A small amount of frost is normal, but thick ice buildup indicates a problem. The most common causes are:
- A damaged or worn door seal letting warm air in
- The door being left open or not closing properly
- A faulty defrost system (in frost-free models)
How to fix it: First, check the door seal. Close the door on a piece of paper — if you can pull the paper out easily, the seal is not tight enough and needs replacing. Door seals are available for most models and can be fitted at home.
If the seal is fine, the automatic defrost system may have failed. Frost-free fridge freezers have a defrost heater that periodically melts frost buildup. If this heater fails, ice accumulates. This requires an engineer to diagnose and replace the defrost heater or timer.
As an immediate fix, defrost the unit manually (turn off, open doors, towels on the floor, wait 12-24 hours). This clears the ice but does not fix the underlying cause if the defrost system has failed.
DIY or engineer: DIY for seal replacement and manual defrost. Engineer for defrost system faults.
4. Fridge Freezer Making Strange Noises
What it looks like: The unit is making loud humming, buzzing, clicking, gurgling or rattling sounds that are louder or different from normal.
What to check: Some noise is normal — fridge freezers hum when the compressor is running and may gurgle as refrigerant flows through the pipes. But new or louder noises can indicate a problem.
Loud humming or buzzing: The compressor may be overworking, often because the condenser coils at the back are clogged with dust. Pull the fridge away from the wall and look at the coils (usually a black grid on the back or underneath). If they are covered in dust, clean them with a vacuum cleaner or a dry brush.
Clicking: Repeated clicking can indicate the compressor is trying to start but failing. This is usually a compressor relay fault and needs an engineer.
Rattling: Check that the fridge is level and stable. Use a spirit level on top of the unit and adjust the feet until it is even. Also check that nothing on top of or behind the fridge is vibrating against it.
Gurgling: This is usually normal — it is the sound of refrigerant moving through the system. If it is constant and accompanied by poor cooling, there may be a refrigerant leak.
DIY or engineer: DIY for dust cleaning and levelling. Engineer for compressor or refrigerant issues.
5. Water Leaking From the Fridge Freezer
What it looks like: Puddles of water appear on the floor around the base of the fridge freezer, or water collects inside the fridge compartment.
What to check: Most fridge freezers have a drainage hole at the back of the fridge compartment, usually at the bottom behind the salad drawers. This hole drains condensation into a tray at the back of the unit where it evaporates. If the hole is blocked, water pools inside the fridge and eventually overflows onto the floor.
How to fix it: Remove the salad drawers and look for a small hole at the back. If it is blocked, clear it with a cotton bud, a pipe cleaner or a piece of thin wire. Pour a small amount of warm water through it to flush the drain. This is one of the most common and easiest fridge problems to fix.
If the water is coming from underneath the freezer, it may be caused by a blocked defrost drain. Ice melts during the defrost cycle but cannot drain away, so it leaks out. This is more difficult to access and may need an engineer.
DIY or engineer: DIY for a blocked fridge drain. Engineer for freezer drain issues.
6. Fridge Freezer Running Constantly
What it looks like: The compressor never stops running. The fridge is humming continuously. Your electricity bill may have increased noticeably.
What to check: A fridge freezer compressor should cycle on and off throughout the day. If it runs non-stop, it is working too hard to maintain the correct temperature. Common causes:
- The thermostat is set too low (too cold)
- The door seal is letting warm air in
- The condenser coils are clogged with dust
- The fridge is placed too close to a wall or heat source (oven, radiator, direct sunlight)
- The room is unusually hot
How to fix it: Check the thermostat setting — the fridge should be set to 3-5°C and the freezer to -18°C. Setting it colder than this forces the compressor to work harder. Clean the condenser coils at the back. Check the door seal with the paper test. Make sure there is at least 5cm of space behind and above the fridge for ventilation. Move it away from any heat source.
If the compressor still runs constantly after checking all of these, the thermostat itself may be faulty and need replacing.
DIY or engineer: DIY for thermostat adjustment, coil cleaning and positioning. Engineer for thermostat replacement.
7. Fridge Freezer Smells Bad
What it looks like: A persistent bad smell inside the fridge or freezer that does not go away after removing old food.
What to check: The most common cause is old food that has gone unnoticed — check behind drawers, in door compartments and at the back of shelves. But if the smell persists after a thorough clean, the drain hole may be blocked (stagnant water breeds bacteria) or the drip tray at the back of the unit may need cleaning.
How to fix it: Remove all food. Take out all shelves and drawers and wash them in warm soapy water. Wipe the interior with a solution of bicarbonate of soda and warm water (one tablespoon per litre). Clear the drainage hole as described in problem 5 above. Pull the fridge out from the wall and locate the drip tray (usually at the bottom near the compressor) — remove it and wash it thoroughly.
To prevent odours returning, place an open box of bicarbonate of soda inside the fridge to absorb smells. Replace it every 2-3 months.
DIY or engineer: DIY. This is always a cleaning job.
8. Thermostat Not Controlling Temperature Properly
What it looks like: The fridge is too cold (food freezing in the fridge compartment) or not cold enough, regardless of what you set the thermostat to.
What to check: First, confirm it is not a user error. The numbering on fridge thermostats confuses people — on most models, a higher number means colder, not warmer. If your fridge is set to 5 and food is freezing, turn it down to 3. If you are unsure what temperature your fridge is actually running at, buy a fridge thermometer (under £5 from most supermarkets) and leave it inside for a few hours.
The correct temperatures are: fridge 3-5°C, freezer -18°C. If the thermostat is set correctly but the temperature is wrong, the thermostat sensor may have failed. This is a common fault on older fridge freezers and requires an engineer to replace.
How to fix it: Adjust the dial and wait 24 hours before checking again — fridge freezers take time to stabilise. If the temperature does not change regardless of the setting, the thermostat needs replacing.
DIY or engineer: DIY for adjustment. Engineer for thermostat replacement.
When to Call an Engineer vs When to Replace
This is the decision most people struggle with. Here is a guide:
Call an engineer if:
- The fridge freezer is less than 5 years old
- The likely repair cost is under £150
- The problem is a specific component (thermostat, door seal, fan, defrost heater)
Consider replacing if:
- The fridge freezer is 8+ years old
- The repair involves the compressor or a refrigerant leak (these typically cost £200-400)
- The energy rating is D, E, F or G — a newer, more efficient model will save money on electricity
- You have already had multiple repairs in the past 2 years
If the repair quote is more than half the cost of a suitable replacement, replacing is almost always the better financial decision.
How Much Does a Fridge Freezer Repair Cost in the UK?
Here are typical repair costs based on UK averages in 2026:
- Thermostat replacement: £80-£150 (parts + labour)
- Door seal replacement: £50-£120 (parts + labour, or DIY for £15-£40 for the seal alone)
- Fan motor replacement: £100-£180
- Defrost heater replacement: £100-£200
- Compressor replacement: £200-£400
- Refrigerant recharge: £150-£300
Engineer callout fees range from £50 to £120 depending on your location. Some engineers deduct the callout fee from the final repair bill if you go ahead with the work.
Always get at least two quotes before committing to a repair. If the engineer recommends a compressor replacement on a fridge freezer that is over 7 years old, get a price for a new unit before agreeing — it may be more cost-effective to replace.
Time for a New Fridge Freezer?
If you have decided to replace rather than repair, choosing the right fridge freezer depends on three things: size, split ratio and whether you want freestanding or integrated. Read our full guide on choosing the right fridge freezer for your home.
The most common split ratios are 50/50 (equal fridge and freezer space) and 70/30 (larger fridge section, smaller freezer). For most UK households, a 70/30 split is the better choice — you typically access the fridge daily but the freezer less often.
If you are replacing an integrated fridge freezer in a fitted kitchen, measure the housing unit before ordering. Standard widths are 54cm and 60cm, but always measure yours to be sure. Not sure whether built-in or freestanding is right for you? We have a full comparison guide.
Here are some options from our range at Core Appliances:
Budget Freestanding: SIA SFF17654WE 252L 50/50 Freestanding Fridge Freezer — a solid budget option with equal fridge and freezer space at £275. Good for utility rooms, garages or rental properties.
Mid-Range Integrated: Smeg UKC81721E 70/30 Integrated Frost Free Fridge Freezer — 70/30 split, frost-free operation, and quiet performance at £689.
Budget Integrated: Amica BK3163FA 54cm Integrated 70/30 Frost-Free Fridge Freezer — a frost-free integrated model with a generous 70/30 split at £489. Fits behind a standard kitchen door panel.
Premium Integrated: Smeg UKC7172NE 70/30 Integrated Frost Free Fridge Freezer — 257 litres total capacity with Smeg build quality, frost-free operation and quiet performance at £1,029.
For a full breakdown of every fridge freezer we stock, visit our fridge freezer collection.
How to Make Your Fridge Freezer Last Longer
Regular maintenance extends the lifespan significantly. The average fridge freezer lasts 10-15 years, but well-maintained units can reach 20 years.
Clean the condenser coils at the back of the unit every 6-12 months. Dust buildup forces the compressor to work harder, shortening its life and increasing energy consumption.
Clear the fridge drainage hole every 3-6 months to prevent blockages and bad smells.
Check the door seals annually using the paper test. Replace them at the first sign of wear — a faulty seal forces the compressor to run constantly.
Keep the fridge at 3-5°C and the freezer at -18°C. Colder settings waste energy without improving food preservation.
Leave at least 5cm of space behind and above the fridge for air circulation. Restricted airflow overheats the compressor.
Do not overpack the fridge — air needs to circulate around the food to maintain an even temperature. A fridge that is 75% full operates most efficiently.
FAQ
Why is my fridge not cold but the freezer is working?
The most common cause is a blocked air vent between the freezer and fridge compartments. Cold air is generated in the freezer and circulated to the fridge through a vent. If ice builds up around this vent or food blocks it, the fridge stops receiving cold air. Defrost the unit for 12-24 hours and clear the vent. If the problem returns quickly, the defrost heater or fan may have failed.
What number should my fridge be on?
On most UK fridge freezers, a higher number means colder. Set the fridge to around 3-5°C — this is typically between 3 and 4 on a numbered dial. If you are unsure what temperature your fridge is actually reaching, buy a fridge thermometer (under £5 from most supermarkets) and check. The freezer should be at -18°C.
How long do you have to leave a new fridge freezer before using it?
After delivery, leave a new fridge freezer to stand upright for at least 4 hours before switching it on — 24 hours if it was transported on its side. This allows the compressor oil to settle back into the correct position. Switching it on too soon can damage the compressor. Once switched on, wait another 4-6 hours for the unit to reach the correct temperature before putting food in.
Is it worth repairing a 10-year-old fridge freezer?
It depends on the repair. A simple fix like a new door seal (£50-£120) or thermostat (£80-£150) is worth doing even on a 10-year-old unit. But a compressor replacement (£200-£400) is rarely worth it on an appliance that age — the compressor is the heart of the unit, and other components are likely to fail soon too. A new, more efficient fridge freezer would also reduce your energy bills.
Why is my fridge freezer making a loud buzzing noise?
A loud buzzing usually means the compressor is overworking. The most common cause is dirty condenser coils — pull the unit away from the wall and clean the coils with a vacuum or dry brush. Also check that the fridge is not pushed too close to the wall (leave at least 5cm gap) and that it is not next to a heat source like an oven or radiator.
Can I fix a fridge freezer myself?
Many common problems are DIY-friendly: blocked drains, dirty coils, worn door seals, ice buildup from a failed defrost cycle, thermostat adjustment and levelling. However, anything involving the compressor, refrigerant gas or electrical wiring should be left to a qualified engineer. Refrigerant is a controlled substance and must be handled by a certified technician.