Here is a conversation we have most weeks.
My old fridge freezer was A+++. This new one is a D. Why would I downgrade?
You would not, and you are not. The label changed, not the appliance. In fact the D-rated one is almost certainly the more efficient machine. Here is what happened, and how to read the label properly so you can compare things fairly.
What changed
The old scale ran from A+++ down to D. It had a problem: manufacturers got better and better, until almost everything on the shelf was A+ or above and the label stopped telling you anything useful. If nine out of ten fridges are A+++, the label is decoration.
So it was rescaled. The pluses were scrapped and the scale reset to a straight A to G.
Crucially, the new scale was set deliberately hard. When it launched, almost nothing qualified for A — the top of the scale was left largely empty on purpose, to leave room for the next decade of improvement. That is why a very good modern appliance can be a C or a D, and why an A-rated one is genuinely exceptional rather than ordinary.
A D on the new label is not the same as a D on the old one. They are different scales with the same letters, which is confusing, but the important thing is that you should never compare a new label to an old one. Compare new labels with new labels.
Not every appliance was rescaled at the same time
This trips people up when they are buying laundry appliances as a pair.
Fridges, freezers, dishwashers, washing machines and washer dryers moved to the A–G scale. Some other categories, including tumble dryers, stayed on the older A+++ to D scale for longer.
The practical rule: look at the shape of the letters on the label in front of you. If you see pluses, it is the old scale. If it runs plainly A to G, it is the new one. Never compare across the two.
The number that actually matters
Ignore the letter for a moment. The useful figure is the annual energy consumption in kWh, printed on the label.
That number lets you do the only calculation that matters:
Annual kWh × your electricity rate per kWh = what it costs you a year.
Your rate is on your energy bill. If an appliance uses 200 kWh a year and you pay 25p a unit, that is £50 a year. Compare two machines on that basis and you get a real answer, not a letter.
It is also how you decide whether paying more upfront is worth it. If the dearer machine saves you £15 a year and costs £150 more, that is a ten-year payback — probably not worth it. If it saves £40 a year and costs £80 more, it pays for itself in two.
How the kWh figure is calculated
Worth knowing, because it is not a real-world number — it is a standardised test so that machines can be compared fairly.
- Washing machines are measured on the Eco 40-60 programme, at a mix of full and part loads. Eco cycles are long and cool, which is exactly why they are efficient. If you only ever use the quick wash, your real consumption will be higher than the label.
- Dishwashers are measured on their eco programme, for the same reason.
- Fridges and freezers are measured over a year in controlled conditions. Your actual figure depends on how warm your kitchen is and how often the door opens.
None of that makes the label useless. It makes it a fair comparison between machines rather than a prediction of your bill.
The other things on the label
People look at the letter and stop. There is more on there, and some of it is genuinely useful.
- Capacity — litres for cold appliances, kilograms for laundry, place settings for dishwashers.
- Water consumption — litres per cycle on dishwashers and washing machines. Relevant if you are on a meter.
- Noise — in decibels, and on some appliances a noise class as well. This matters far more than people expect in an open-plan kitchen.
- Spin class on washing machines — how much water is left in the load. A better spin class means less time in the dryer, which is where the real energy goes.
- A QR code — scan it and you get the full official product data.
Where the money actually is
Being honest about this, because chasing an energy letter is often not the best way to cut your bill.
Drying is the expensive one. A tumble dryer uses far more electricity than a washing machine. Moving from a vented or condenser dryer to a heat pump model saves considerably more than upgrading a fridge by one letter — our guide to heat pump versus condenser dryers covers the difference.
A good spin class is quietly worth a lot. The drier your washing comes out of the machine, the less time it spends in the dryer. That is a saving on every single load.
Washing cooler beats washing efficiently. Most of the energy in a wash goes on heating the water. A 30°C cycle in an average machine will usually beat a 60°C cycle in an excellent one.
An old fridge is the one worth replacing. It runs 24 hours a day, every day, for its whole life. A fifteen-year-old fridge freezer is very likely costing you real money, and that is the upgrade with the clearest payback. Our fridge freezer guide covers choosing a replacement.
Frequently asked questions
Is a D-rated appliance bad?
No. On the current A–G scale, C and D cover a lot of very good machines. The scale was set hard on purpose.
Why can I not find any A-rated appliances?
Because A was deliberately left almost empty when the scale was introduced, to leave headroom. A-rated models exist and they are excellent, but they are the exception and they carry a premium.
Should I always buy the highest rating I can afford?
No. Do the sum: annual kWh, times your rate, compared against the extra cost. Sometimes the answer is yes. Often the money is better spent elsewhere.
Does the rating tell me how much my bill will be?
Not exactly. It is a standardised test so machines can be compared like for like. Your real usage depends on which programmes you actually run.
My old label says A++ and the new one says E. Which is better?
Almost certainly the new one. Different scales, same letters. Never compare across the two.
Where can I see the official figures?
Scan the QR code on the label, which takes you to the official product database entry for that exact model.
Want the short version?
Look at the kWh, not the letter. Multiply it by your electricity rate. Compare that against the price difference, and buy accordingly.
If you would rather just ask someone, message us on WhatsApp with the two models you are weighing up and we will do the sum with you. Free UK delivery over £400 and the full manufacturer warranty on everything we sell.
